1. Cockpit 2010  - Fit out  2012 - sailing shot 2012.


  2. Portland 2012 Fit out - before stepping mizzen

  3. Portland 2012 launching

    smooth launch; swelled well, released from slings in under an hour

  4. Portland 2012 launch

  5. Portland 2012 Variety of yard shots - engine model (3JH), primer on bottom, rail wooded and fresh varnish and main mast wooded = seven coats

  6. 2010 - Underside of teak deck (over berth) - original gauge arrangement with modern yanmar plus full gauges - new oak stem backing, fwd floor, samson post scarf with lead pigs

  7. 2009 new aft keel scarf, deadwood, rudder rebuild

  8. Interior shots - 2011 (see 2011 survey for further interior pictures)


  9. Vessel specifics, history, rebuild, project and maintence notes

    Owner notes on 1946 36’ Casey Yawl:


    A short history on the vessel:

    The vessel was built by the Major Casey yard in Fairhaven, Mass. as WWII was winding down; the yard was vertically integrated similar to most yards of the time with a foundry, cabinet shop, milling shed, mechanical shop and ability to do semi custom as custom work. Commercial and yacht projects were constructed with well over 100 employees for many years. Many designs, designers were present with Casey as the builder – the first Concordia yawl: Java was built in 1939, many Alden designs and other popular designers.

    She is just young enough to be influenced by recent trends, tank testing, WWII technology – with beamer midships, cutaway fwd section, integrated mast step above keel but clearly influenced by the current Aldens.

    From what we know; our yawl was a semi custom build based on these designs. She was built to order for a client in the Chesapeake. Mahogany on oak construction with mahogany/cedar cabin and mahogany cabinetry. Iron fastenings common for the period (unless a full custom order from a wealthy client) she spent the mid-late 50’s, 60’s in Maine (was refastened with bronze at the Harvey Gamage yard in the late 50’s), spent time in Massachusetts, Connecticut and spent 10 years from 1988 – 98’ in Gloucester, Ma. Where a cabinet maker spent 5 years rebuilding and 5 years sailing her. Significant work on frame and plank replacement, new shear clamp, rails, bulwarks, shear planks, covering boards, deck beam ends, mid and fore hatches, cabin trim, canvas and more. She was sold in 98/99 and moved to Connecticut and back to the Chesapeake where the Yanmar and new engine beds were installed by a yard. We bought her in Jan. 2003 and brought her north to Lake Champlain, she then moved to Portland, Maine in 2011, where she is now. We have a good folder of old information, pictures.

    The vessel has her original bronze hardware, winches, Merriman levers (running backstays), dorade’s, worm gear steering, oil lamps, icebox (SS lined), Shipmate stove and tiny tot stove, binnacle. She has her original teak decks (still ~1”). She has a tall aspect ratio, long booms.

    Of import is:

    She has not been messed about with, retains her original layout (except for a widened V berth in the form of a 1 2/3 width to stbd, with 1 to port), old hardware, few noticeable changes, old holes,… and she smells good down below - a harbinger of good health.



    Full complement of sails, including mizzen staysail, storm jib and spinnaker. Sail covers and hatch covers, deck plate for dorades.

    Spinnaker pole, four sheet winches, two halyard winches, SS standing rigging/bronze turnbuckles, running rigging (including multiple wood blocks), fenders, Danforth anchor/rode and normal gear. Bronze stanchions (removable) are included.

    Batteries (new 2010) = 4D and 27 series with isolator. Two copper fuel tanks of 20 gal each (with stbd tank removed and available with boat). A salon folding table is included but currently in barn. Older head and ~22 gal poly holding tank. 30 gallon copper water tank. Hand pumps at galley and head sinks. 12v panel with normal lights, bilge pumps, depth, speed (new sender 2012). Whale gusher manual pump. Recent bunk cushions including memory foam fwd V berth.  A winter cover (white tarp) and frame is included.

    The current owners are passionate about our use and care of such a lovely wooden yawl. We own several wooden boats, have grown up around them carry out most all our own work on maintenance and major projects, while bringing in professional help when prudent. We enjoy working on her.

    The vessel is in active use, is in Portland on the hard (hauled late October 12’)

    The vessel is in better condition than when we purchased her.

    Evidence from the notes and files we received with the vessel is of regular care until the early 80’s and the acute reason for her rebuild in late 80’s/early 90’s.

    Notes follow on various regular maintenance and more importantly projects that have been completed or in process under our ownership (since 2003). It is not inclusive, but intended as a guide and ongoing record to remain with the vessel. The vessel is insured through Heritage Marine brokers and had her periodic condition survey completed as required in 2011.

    The vessel has classic wood boat maintenance routine carried out every spring:

    ·         Sand and varnish all brightwork

    ·         Sand/paint cabin top, keep teak washed and natural

    ·         Sand/paint bottom

    ·         Review all systems

    ·         Soak with hose along top of interior ceiling before launching

    ·         Kept clean

    ·         Various projects for the year

    Boat is sailed well and hard all summer, weekends and evenings. She has been raced in an informal Saturday morning scratch race and annual races. This allows any problems show up, i.e. not masked by lack of use. The vessel rides at a mooring during the season, and is on the hard, with masts down in the winter.

    She sees a lot of use, does not sit alone on her mooring.

    Honorable mention was given Gratitude and her owners for a well maintained vessel at the 2005 Lake Champlain Classic Boat Show (she may well have won in 2006, but we were absent). We were also competing against yard maintained boats.

    Below is a roughly chronological list of major projects carried our ownership. Several of these relate directly to the purchase/insurance survey carried out in January/February 2003:

    2003- 2007:

    1. Stem: Nose of stem was cut back around and below bobstay mount. Wood was cut back to hood ends, all soft spots removed, and new piece of oak fitted. This effort also included:
    2. Cutting out soft wood at bottom of Sampson post, removing cracked floor
    3. Fitting a ~5’ x  3” x 3”backbone on top of the interior stem.
    4. The new floors, bottom of Sampson post, new backbone was all through bolted with bronze rod, including rod all the way through for the bobstay mount.
    5. All items red leaded
    1. Keel bolts
    2. Three aft iron keel bolts were replaced with 1 ¼ SS. The old bolts were fine (found to be coated with black tar, and looking new – {confirming the previous rebuilders claim that he replaced all bolts =Gloucester, Ma. 1988 - 1993 } but the nuts at bilge floor had rusted where bilge water had been present
    3. All other nut heads inspected, ground, brushed and treated with rust stop, then coated with coal tar epoxy
    1. Horn timber concerns were focused on the cracks and soft spots in front of the rudder:
    2. The boat had been out of the water for two years in dry/hotMarylandclimate. The cracks swelled shut after two weeks in the water, and have kept closed since then.
    3. The soft spots were down low behind and part of the deadwood, NOT on the horn timber. These have been cut out, and a Dutchman placed in with 4200 caulk and screws

    Soft plank ends:

    1. Two plank ends one in 2003, one in 2006 have been repaired.
    2. Both have had the top cut back until good wood was found, and new wood epoxied on, and refastened.
    1. Refastening: ~50 bottom screws were replaced during three years, of inspection , repair, and to ensure they were holding well. The old screws were all fair/good, i.e. no extreme necking, bad discoloring. Many of the heads were stripped, and were therefore replaced.
    1. Sea cocks
    2. All sea cocks were overhauled by disassembly, cleaning/polishing, and then application of water pump grease
    1. Fire extinguishers replaced, added new one
    1. Electrical panel opened, and inspected as visual water damage was present. No signs of problems existed on bus/fuse panel
    1. Radio/radar gear overhauled: old non functional gear removed, vhf radio replaced. Knotmeter, fathometer function well.
    2. Compass boxed, corrections listed
    3. Handheld gps kept on board
    4. Running light bulbs replaced
    5. Mast head light repaired
    6. Steaming light repaired
    1. Bilge wire brushed, cleaned and painted wit red lead
    2. Tar was then troweled into any cracks
    3. All limber holes checked
    4. All frame to keel joints painted with red lead (ay up in stem and stern) and tarred added to existing tar to ensure proper water drainage down nto main bilge cavity (for pumping)
    1. Bilge pumps:
    2. Three new pumps fitted, two electric automatic, one manual gusher
    3. Original large (16” dia.) gusher pump disassembled cleaned, greased and refitted
    1. Fuel System
    2. Starboard fuel tank removed (copper and in good condition)
    3. Port tank inspected, new valves fitted, new hoses, moved racor filter and added a large dewatering canister (1 qt)
    4. Additional small auxiliary (2 gal tank fitted in stbd. Aft lazzarette)
    5. This configuration offered access to rotten deck beams, and more storage space. Vessel use requires minimal fuel, as we sail most places.
    1. Head overhauled with all new seals.
    2. Modern holding tank (custom) fitted with dual vents
    3. Deck pump out fitting added (bronze)
    1. Mahogany rails, and covering boards wooded
    2. all rails (large area) were wooded, and given six coats of Epifanes varnish
    3. hardware was rebedded with traditional bedding compound
    4. genoa track was removed, screws checked, thru bolts added a fore end
    1. Masts/rigging:
    2. Mizzen wooded, varnished
    3. Mainin good condition, although hairline cracks were cleaned out, glued and clamped.
    4. All standing rigging inspected, several bolts replaced, oiled, watched
    5. Several sheets, one halyard replaced, main halyard block replaced
    6. Mainsail track repaired, new fasteners in several locations
    7. Wiring refastened, cleaned up, new terminal ends soldered on
    8. New marline on spreader stops
    9. Apparent wind direction flag added
    1. Cabin top was sanded to canvas, sealed, caulked and repainted
    2. Annual care is taken to ensure any hairline cracks are filled with caulk before painting
    3. Eyebrow trim was caulked underneath
    1. Mushroom vent (4” bronze) was added toportofSamsonpost/bowsprit to ensure good ventilation air through vessel.
    2. An existing vent is on aft deck,
    3. Two dorades along with engine air intake also contribute
    4. Many sailors/experienced boat carpenters often remark on how good the boat smells –“no sign of trouble”
    1. Hullwas wooded, inspected, ~30 bungs replaced, ~10 refastenings.
    2. Seams white leaded, and caulked
    3. Hullpainted with red lead/primer mix
    4. Hullhas been top coated twice in past four years (last time =July 06’ in time for her 60th. Birthday
    5. Bottom was coated in straight red lead
    6. Bottom has been reamed, cotton checked, replaced, pounded
    7. Bottom caulked twice
    1. Cabin sides, coaming wooded, inspected, treated with rot preventative, and painted. Cockpit coaming bolts replaced in two locations.
    2. Coamings require regular care as they are getting old, and show signs of  moisture
    3. Cabin sides were in good condition, although not good enough to be bright. The cabin side iron fastenings are bleeding through in several locations, and are part of an ongoing effort to remove them, and/or stabilize and cut out any back wood, place a Dutchman
    1. Teak decks: overhaul
    2. All seam compound removed, cotton checked, pounded
    3. ~60 new fastenings, bungs
    4. New commercial/professional grade two part black caulk set
    5. Sanded, coated with Epifanes teak deck sealer and teak oil
    6. Decks oiled twice, three times per year
    7. Decks were found to be 1 ¼” thick (exposed from underneath, in good cond.)
    8. Cockpit sides (mahogany) wooded, and varnished
    9. Several repairs made to aft section of deck that had moved (this required clamps/jacks, and hard work but success did come)
    10. All hardware rebedded, many new fasteners
    1. Deck beams/cockpit footwell
    2. Five new oak deck beams fitted in cockpit area, including 5’ long cross beam at forward end of footwell.
    3. Deck recrowned and deck beams set in caulk (after lead paint)
    4. New fastenings, and new vertical support at high traffic area just aft of boom crutch
    1. Interior paint
    2. White interior sanded, caulked where appropriate and painted
    3. This included:

                                                                  i.      Overhead, cabin sides, trim

                                                                ii.      Deck beams, shear clamps

    1. Underside of teak decks sanded and oiled
    2. Sole in galley sanded and painted/varnished
    1. Batteries
    2. Strapped down (except large house battery, which can not come out without removing wood braces
    3. Connections cleaned
    4. Terminal covers being fitted/two of four in place)
    5. Batteryfuse link on order to be placed in line
    1. Steering gear
    2. Pins peened on worm gear drive
    3. Bolts tightened, adjusted,
    4. Set bolt on rudder shaft head tightened/set
    1. keel/top of ballast Dutchman. The forward stbd. Slivr of keel on top of the ballast was seen to be soft
    2. the black wood was removed until white wood found, cleaned, red leaded and an oak dutchman fitted. While a leak was seen above this area when sailing hard in 2005, the leak was not present after the repair
    1. Engine controls oiled, rerouted for better run.
    2. New wires to remote key adjacent helm)
    3. New cut off cable
    1. Engine gauge panel rehabbed with modern electric gauges
    2. Used Led lights for idiot lights.
    3. Added engine hour meter (engine is 1999 Yanmar 3jh3e with ~100 hrs.)
    1. propeller shaft being replaced
    2. old one was in two parts, poor job when replacing engine
    3. new SS shaft, new stuffing box, new cutlass housing and bearing.
    1. Multiple other normal areas, including various halyards, shackles, sail repair,


    1. Pine tar diluted with turps and linseed oil in Bilges, lower frames, forepeak, under aft deck, cockpit and engine room. Ensured no freshwater issues were compiling by keeping areas clean. Had previously used red lead in any repairs, construction, did not want to use bilge paint as concerned it would fail, peel and trap
    2. Topsides wooded, refastened ~ 10 locations, new bungs, white seam compound
    3. Bottom wooded, red lead primer, several new bungs, iron ballast ground with 36 grit –rust stop and epoxy paint
    4. 4 keel bolts up fwd and under mast step replaced (SS 1”), pine tar and roof tar placed between keel and ballast
    5. Major effort undertaken in 2008 -2009 to remove aft deadwood, and garboard planks: remove soft section of keel and scarf in new 7’ section of keel (~ 10” x 11”) aft from last keel bolt to horn timber. Frame ends in good shape, white oak was air dried and bolted through. Any joints bonded with gel flex epoxy including new deadwood section. Rudder repaired (new section of oak), new lower bracket and reinforced bronze strap at top, rudder box repacked. Garboards returned with all new fastenings (old fastenings were in good shape – several did require going up one size). New section scarfed on front of horntimber section in lower corner. Determined that best to leave horntimber in place as while it has a crack, it is structural sound and significant wood behind planks hood ends/garboards. Cement under engine frame bay was left in place (bottom of cement was clean and oak bedded in deep tar under bottom of cement) Bolts were dilled up through cement and can be accessed under engine.
    6. Deck beam removed from under port cockpit seat and replaced with temporary cedar (meant to last ten years – but placed as launch was imminent and time to sail rather than remove cockpit footwell siding and complete full repair. Current effort is stable, secure and not introducing new problems). Coaming is fastened to the new deck beams via bolts
    7. Forekeel section ahead of mast step replaced and included dutchman in section of keel as well as new fwd ballast fairing block.
    8. Multiple standard stripping, painting, caulking activities
    9. 2012 - Main mast wooded, ~50’ linear of box seams were cleaned and epoxied. As the seams were separating. Sanded fine, sealed and varnished. 90% of hardware  was removed and rebed in bedding compound –this was proactive and the mast looks perfect after a summer of sailing.
    10. 2012 Mizzen and booms, partially wooded, varnished
    11. 2012 Rails, eyebrow, main hatch wooded and varnished
    12. New SS exhaust piping from manifold to rubber and including water Y section. New hose and clamps done also.
    13. Note: engine oil always changed in the fall, very low hour use and biodiesel of at least 60% mix has been used (hoses upgraded). The extra lubricity of biodiesel will benefit the engine. Filters also changed regularly. Engine starts instantly, excellent oil pressure and no smoke as it should be as it has such low hours and good care

    Tasks/projects to be considered during next five years:

    1. Covering boards and inside of rail require wooding and varnish (2013 task)
    2. Recanvas cabin top (or dynel). It is surviving with caulk and paint, is solid and looks okay. Hatch hardware, dorade boxes and eyebrow look to be clear and straightforward.
    3. Teak deck caulk has ~ 100 linear feet of seams that should be redone (cut out caulk and replace with new. Cotton is most likely fine. (not a major job as teak is in good shape, beams are good and deck can be sanded after for simple completion).
    4. Cockpit coamings are getting soft where they sit on the deck. Could be replaced entirely (maybe bright?) or new 2” replaced on bottom. The winch bases, coaming mounts are accessible from below and the coaming does simple sit on deck, and attach to cabin side - no fussing joints.